This weekend I’ve had to buy my first pair of trousers in over a year – a clear sign that we’ve left the Caribbean!
The seasons are definitely changing here in Italy. Gone are the long sunny days without wind – replaced instead by successive gales keeping the boat tucked up in some protected harbour and us below with the hatches closed and the candles burning.
Since arriving in the Med’ our cruising can be characterised as motoring through endless calms from one beautiful destination to another. It’s been a little disappointing not to have more time with the sails up, but this is offset by being able to anchor beneath any beautiful vista that takes your fancy.
Summer is finally over though. Since stepping aboard last year, the temperature has been constantly in the high 20s and the water has been the same. In just the last week that’s all changed and we’re now in water that’s too cold for a swim.
Also for the first time since we entered the Med’ we’ve been forced to seek shelter in a marina. Converging storm fronts meant we had 45kts from one direction and building seas from the opposite direction – there aren’t too many anchorages that would have coped with those conditions.
So it was that we made our way to Salerno, just around the corner from Amalfi. It’s not an obvious destination but fortuitous none the less as it turned out to be a charming Italian city, overlooked by tourists. While waiting for the latest gale to pass we visited Pompei (a short 2euro train ride away) and spent our time sipping the best macchiatos we’ve ever had, wandering the streets with the locals on a Saturday night and catching up on a little retail therapy, looking for warm clothes we’d almost forgotten existed.
We have another 3 weeks in Italy before it’s time to winter the boat and head back to Australia for a few months. Until then we’re hoping we can stretch out of the last of the autumn cruising season here on the Amalfi coast….maybe Capri. After that, it’s time to put Orchid into hibernation and head back to summer in Brisbane.
Post Script: It’s 1.20am on 22nd October. I’m awake, the engine is running and the radio and hard drive backup are in the oven in case lightening strikes the boat…… I miss the lazy summer days!