Indian Summer

Just when I thought we’d have to spend our last weeks hidden down below from storms and cold winds, the sun reappeared to give us a final reminder of why we love this lifestyle so much.

After enduring a week of rolly, sleepless nights in Capri, we headed north to Ischia to take a look.  We were a little reluctant to drop into this island because most of it is a restricted marine park and there are all sorts of forms and permits you need to visit it.  We were so tired of not having a a good nights sleep though, that we said “stuff it” and decided to risk it anyway.

Cautiously we dropped our anchor right under the nose of the Coast Guard, who were inspecting fishing permits, and when they didn’t come and chase us off, we thought “great, tacit approval” and proceeded to have a fantastic week anchored beneath medieval castles, off quaint fishing towns and in deserted little bays, all of our own.

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Our favourite was a small bay called San Montano where there was just enough room to anchor, a beautiful beach at the end of the bay and a thermal spring bubbling down the beach into the water.  We spent 5 days in this spot where we swam, played on the beach and when we felt like it, took a short walk over the hill to the restaurants, cafes and pizzerias.  Perhaps the thing we like most about this location was the lack of tourists.  We did school work in the piazza, sipped our espresso each morning and often dropped in for a pizza on the way home. 

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Another beautiful thing about this spot was the nightly procession of fisherman who would idle past the mouth of the bay.  Each evening from sunset, a stream of small fishing boats would slowly drift along, one behind the other with their navigation lights on.  It was so graceful that it felt like a nightly ballet and it was wonderful to sit up on deck playing guitar or sipping a drink while they all drifted by….. these guys have the right pace of life figured out.

We left our departure to the last possible minute but eventually we had to say goodbye and start the migration north to Rome and our flights to Australia.  What a blessed way to finish our cruising season though, with thoughts of sunny days, cafes, deserted beaches and quiet, star filled nights at anchor.

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